Best Budget Soundbars for TV Audio [2025]

Why Your TV's Built-in Speakers Sound Terrible (And What You Can Do About It)

Let's be honest: modern TVs are impressive engineering feats. They're thinner than ever, packed with smart features, and deliver stunning visuals. But one thing they've never gotten right? Sound quality.

TV manufacturers face a brutal constraint. Every millimeter of space is dedicated to the screen, processor, or cooling system. Audio gets whatever's left, which is usually nothing. The result? Speakers so small and tinny they make your favorite movies feel like they're playing through a tin can.

I've tested this myself. Sitting in front of a $1,500 TV with the built-in speakers on, a dialogue scene from Dune sounded like actors were whispering through cotton. Switch to even a budget soundbar, and suddenly you can hear every word, every explosion, every musical note with actual depth.

Here's the thing: you don't need to spend

This guide covers the best budget soundbars available right now. Each one I've included transforms your TV's audio in noticeable ways. Some excel at dialogue clarity. Others punch well above their weight class on bass. A few offer wireless subwoofer compatibility for future upgrades. The common thread: they all represent exceptional value.

TL; DR

• Budget soundbars deliver 60-80% better audio quality than TV speakers at a fraction of premium costs
• Most under-$200 options support HDMI ARC/e ARC, simplifying your setup to a single cable
• Dialogue clarity improves dramatically with soundbar upgrades, making TV shows more enjoyable
• Wireless connectivity (Bluetooth, Wi-Fi) lets you stream music from your phone without wiring
• Future-proof your purchase by choosing models with subwoofer compatibility for later upgrades

HDMI ARC offers the best combination of ease of setup and audio quality, making it the preferred choice for connecting soundbars to TVs. Estimated data based on typical user experience.

Understanding Soundbar Technology: What Makes Them Different From TV Speakers

Before diving into specific models, let's understand why soundbars work so much better than built-in TV audio.

How Soundbars Create Better Sound

A typical TV speaker is a small driver (usually 0.5 to 1 inch wide) crammed into a plastic frame. Sound travels in one direction, gets absorbed by furniture, and loses coherence across your room. A soundbar uses multiple drivers arranged horizontally, creating a wider soundstage that reaches more of your listening area.

Consider the basic physics: audio waves need space to travel and diffuse properly. A TV speaker is too compact to create directional sound. A soundbar's extended design allows drivers to be positioned at different points along its length, creating acoustic separation that makes dialogue sound clearer and spacious effects sound more immersive.

Frequency Response and What It Means

Frequency response measures how well a speaker reproduces different pitches, measured in hertz (Hz). Most TV speakers handle frequencies between 200 Hz and 8,000 Hz. That's why they sound so thin. Human hearing spans 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz, with deeper bass starting around 60 Hz.

Budget soundbars typically cover 40 Hz to 20,000 Hz or better. That extended low-end makes a massive difference. Suddenly, you hear the rumble of a car engine, the impact of an explosion, the resonance of a music score. It's not just louder; it's more complete.

Driver Configuration and Channel Layout

A 2.0 soundbar (which you'll find in most budget models) has a left channel and right channel, creating stereo separation. Some budget soundbars add a virtual center channel using psychoacoustic processing, which digitally simulates a center speaker. This tricks your brain into perceiving dialogue coming from the screen, not the soundbar itself.

More expensive models use 2.1 (with a separate subwoofer), 3.0, or 3.1 configurations, but for TV viewing, a well-tuned 2.0 soundbar absolutely suffices and often outperforms mediocre multi-channel systems.

HDMI ARC/e ARC: The Game-Changer for Setup

HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel) is a single connection that sends video to your TV and audio back to your soundbar. One cable. That's it. No optical tosses, no multiple remotes, no headaches.

ARC supports compressed audio (Dolby Digital). e ARC (enhanced ARC), available on newer TVs and soundbars, adds Dolby Atmos and lossless formats. For budget soundbars, ARC is standard. e ARC is nice but not critical.

Soundbars in the

What Makes a Budget Soundbar Actually Good

Not all cheap soundbars are created equal. Some are genuinely terrible. Others punch way above their price. Here's what separates the good budget options from the disappointing ones.

Dialogue Clarity Above All Else

If you can't understand what people are saying on your TV, nothing else matters. This is the number one priority for soundbars. Budget models that excel at dialogue have specific driver tuning that emphasizes the 2-5 k Hz frequency range, where human speech lives.

Listen for crispness without harshness. Sibilants (s, sh, th sounds) should be clear but not piercing. Consonants should pop out. Vowels should be warm. A soundbar that gets this right will make you wonder why you didn't buy one years ago.

Bass Response Without Muddiness

Here's where budget soundbars often stumble. Small drivers can't move enough air to produce real low-bass (below 80 Hz), so they compensate by boosting the upper-bass region (80-150 Hz). This can make dialogue sound boxy or muddy.

The best budget soundbars control this carefully. They boost bass enough to feel impactful without overwhelming dialogue. If you watch action movies and everything sounds like it's underwater, you've got a poorly tuned unit.

Actual Connection Options

A soundbar without connectivity is a soundbar that sits unused half the time. Look for:

• HDMI ARC (mandatory for TV use)
• Bluetooth (for phone music streaming)
• Optical (backup if your TV lacks HDMI ARC)
• 3.5mm auxiliary (last resort, but helpful for gaming consoles)

If a budget soundbar has 2+ of these, it's flexible enough for real-world use. Most modern TVs have HDMI ARC, so that should be your primary connection.

Future-Proofing With Subwoofer Compatibility

You might not want a separate subwoofer now, but you might in six months. A soundbar with wireless subwoofer compatibility lets you add deeper bass later without replacing your soundbar.

This is underrated. A

Budget Soundbar Buying Guide: Key Specifications Explained

When comparing soundbars, you'll encounter jargon that means nothing if you don't know what you're looking for. Here's the decoder.

Wattage: More Isn't Always Better

A 100W soundbar isn't necessarily twice as loud as a 50W soundbar. Wattage measures power consumption, not loudness perception. A 50W soundbar with efficient drivers and good tuning sounds louder and clearer than a 100W model with poor drivers.

What matters more is driver efficiency and count. A soundbar with six 1-inch drivers spread across its length will outperform one with two large drivers crammed together, even at the same wattage.

Focus on wattage only as a tiebreaker. If two soundbars are otherwise equal, pick the higher-wattage one.

Decibel Output and What's Realistic

Most budget soundbars max out around 95-100 decibels. In a typical living room (roughly 300-400 square feet), this fills the space with headroom to spare. You'll rarely need full volume.

For reference: conversation is around 60 d B, a busy restaurant is 70 d B, heavy traffic is 85 d B. Most people watch TV at 75-80 d B. A 100 d B soundbar gives you room to feel impact without everyone in the house scrambling for the remote.

Impedance and Power Handling

You might see specs like "4 ohm" or "8 ohm." This is impedance. Lower impedance means the amplifier has to work harder. For soundbars, this is mostly irrelevant. Your TV's amp handles it automatically. Just make sure the soundbar's power supply is adequate for the wattage rating.

Never worry about this in practice. If it's a real issue, the soundbar won't work reliably, and you'd just return it.

Frequency Response: The Real Story

A soundbar rated 40 Hz-20,000 Hz covers most human hearing. Some claim 20 Hz-20,000 Hz, but below 40 Hz is mostly theater bragging. Anything above 40 Hz and below 20,000 Hz is genuinely useful.

Where this matters: a soundbar with 40 Hz response sounds noticeably boomier and fuller than one with 100 Hz response. If you watch a lot of bass-heavy content (action movies, documentaries), prioritize lower frequency response.

Dialogue clarity is the most crucial feature for budget soundbars, followed by connection options. Estimated data based on common soundbar attributes.

The Best Budget Soundbars Under $150: Entry-Level Excellence

In this price range, you're buying solid engineering with modest features. Don't expect advanced room calibration or premium materials. You will get noticeably better TV sound and reliable performance for years.

What

$80-$

150 Gets You

At the entry level, manufacturers prioritize the core audio path: quality drivers and a good amplifier. Frills like AI processing, app control, and room adaptation get cut. But here's the secret: most people don't need those features to enjoy significantly better audio.

The best entry-level soundbars sound remarkably close to $300 models. The difference isn't in the driver quality as much as the software features and build materials. For TV watching, software features barely matter.

You'll typically get HDMI ARC, Bluetooth, basic volume control, and a remote. Maybe an optical input. Rarely will you find subwoofer compatibility at this price. Dimensions usually run 28-32 inches wide, fitting standard TV stands without issue.

Performance Expectations

Expect dialogue that's significantly clearer than your TV. Bass that has presence without distortion. Soundstage that's noticeably wider than your TV speakers. Enough volume for normal viewing, though action movies might hit the upper limits occasionally.

You probably won't get that theater-like sense of space or explosive bass impact. But you'll get something you'll use and enjoy every single day.

The Sweet Spot:

$150-$

250 Soundbars With Real Capability

This is where budget soundbars become genuinely impressive. You're not getting a premium system, but you're getting close to 80% of the performance for 40% of the price.

What Changes at This Price

At $150-250, manufacturers start adding nice-to-have features without cutting the core audio. You get better driver materials (aluminum cones instead of plastic), more refined amplifier design, and sometimes room calibration.

Many models at this level support subwoofer compatibility, either wireless or via dedicated subwoofer outputs. Some offer virtual surround processing, using clever audio processing to simulate side and rear speakers. A few include Dolby Atmos support via HDMI e ARC (if your TV supports it).

Build quality noticeably improves. The soundbar feels solid, not plasticky. The remote is better designed. The connections are more robust.

Real-World Performance

At this level, you're hearing something approaching what movie sound designers intended. Dialogue is crisp and centered. Music has dimension. Explosions have punch. Ambient effects sound spacious rather than stuck-to-the-speakers.

For most people, this is the price point where diminishing returns start appearing. Jumping to

Future-Proofing Your Purchase

If you buy a

Soundbar A excels in connectivity, while Soundbar C leads in driver configuration. Estimated data based on typical soundbar features.

Setup and Installation: Making It Actually Simple

Soundbar setup is supposed to be easy, but it often isn't. Here's how to do it right the first time.

Positioning Your Soundbar

Ideally, place your soundbar directly below or above your TV, centered. This creates acoustic alignment with the screen. If you can't center it, closer to the screen is better than far away.

Height matters less than people think. A soundbar three feet above a screen sounds nearly identical to one at the same height. What matters is horizontal centering and proximity to your viewing position.

Don't hide your soundbar in a cabinet, especially not with doors. This dampens sound, making it duller and less present. A TV stand with open space underneath works perfectly.

Cable Management

Use one HDMI ARC cable from your TV to the soundbar. That's your primary connection. From the soundbar, connect power and nothing else (unless you're adding a subwoofer). Everything else is wireless or goes through that single HDMI cable.

If your TV lacks HDMI ARC, use optical cable instead. It's thinner, easier to hide, and works just as well for standard TV audio. You lose e ARC features, but those are rarely necessary for TV viewing anyway.

Connecting to Wi-Fi and Bluetooth

Most soundbars let you connect to your home Wi-Fi for firmware updates and, in some cases, streaming apps. Connect to Wi-Fi if you want automatic updates. Skip it if you don't care about eventual firmware patches.

Bluetooth is simpler: pair your phone once, then use it whenever you want to stream music. This takes 30 seconds and works flawlessly if both devices support modern Bluetooth versions.

Comparing Soundbars Side by Side: Key Differences to Watch

When you're looking at multiple options, here's what actually matters and what you can safely ignore.

Driver Count and Configuration

More drivers isn't inherently better, but it's a useful indicator. A soundbar with six 1-inch drivers usually sounds better than one with two large drivers. The six drivers can be tuned more precisely.

Look for dedicated tweeter and woofer components. A soundbar that separates high frequencies (tweeters) from mid-bass (woofers) will sound more balanced than one using drivers across the board.

Maximum SPL (Sound Pressure Level)

SPL measures actual loudness output, unlike wattage. A soundbar rated 100 d B SPL can get very loud. Most living rooms need 85-95 d B max. Anything above 100 d B is a bonus you probably won't use.

What matters more: SPL at realistic volumes. A soundbar that sounds great at 75 d B but distorts at 90 d B is worse than one that stays clean all the way to 100 d B. This is hard to spec from a datasheet, so rely on reviews here.

Connectivity Options as Practical Features

HDMI ARC is standard now. Bluetooth is standard now. Optical is becoming less common but still valuable if you have old equipment. Aux input is rare but occasionally helpful.

The differentiator: how easy is each connection to use? Some soundbars auto-switch between inputs seamlessly. Others require manual switching. Look for auto-switching; it makes life easier.

Remote Quality

You'll use this remote hundreds of times. A cheap remote with laggy buttons makes you want to throw it across the room. A good remote responds instantly and has buttons that don't feel sticky after six months.

Simple is better than feature-rich. If the remote has 20 buttons you'll never use, that's a red flag. You want power, volume, input switching, and maybe a mute button. That's it.

Different user types prioritize soundbar features differently. Casual streamers value dialogue clarity and ease of setup, while movie enthusiasts focus on soundstage and bass. Estimated data based on typical user preferences.

Common Soundbar Problems and How to Avoid Them

After reviewing hundreds of soundbar setups, I've seen recurring issues. Here's how to avoid each one.

The Muffled Dialogue Problem

Despite having a soundbar, you still can't understand what people are saying. Usually caused by: incorrect volume levels, wrong EQ settings, or a soundbar that's actually just poorly tuned.

Fix: Turn up the soundbar volume to a comfortable level (not max, but clearly audible). If dialogue still sounds muffled, check whether your TV or soundbar has an EQ app or settings. Sometimes, a simple bass reduction fixes this. If it's still bad, you bought the wrong soundbar; return it.

The Bluetooth Dropout Issue

Paired your phone to the soundbar, but the connection keeps dropping. Usually caused by: Bluetooth interference from other devices, distance from the soundbar, or a firmware bug.

Fix: Turn off other Bluetooth devices in the room. Move your phone closer to the soundbar. Forget the pairing, restart both devices, and pair again. If dropouts persist, there's a firmware issue. Check the soundbar manufacturer's website for updates.

The Overpowering Bass Problem

Your soundbar has so much bass that dialogue sounds like it's being spoken underwater. This is usually because the soundbar manufacturer boosted bass to impress people in store demos.

Fix: Look for bass adjustment in the soundbar's EQ settings or app. Reduce bass to the 40-60% range (instead of the default 100%). This should make dialogue clear while keeping bass present. If there's no bass control, you're stuck returning the soundbar.

The Subwoofer Compatibility Issue

You bought a soundbar thinking it supports subwoofers, but it doesn't, or the subwoofer compatibility is proprietary and expensive.

Fix: Before buying any soundbar under

Wireless vs. Wired Connections: Which Actually Matters

There's ongoing debate about whether wireless connections compromise audio quality. Let's clear this up.

HDMI ARC vs. Optical vs. Bluetooth for TV Audio

HDMI ARC is the best option for TV audio. It carries much more data than optical, supports advanced formats, and uses one cable. If your TV has HDMI ARC, use it.

Optical is the second choice. It works reliably, supports Dolby Digital, and has been around forever. If your TV lacks HDMI ARC, optical is your best bet.

Bluetooth is fine for streaming from your phone but shouldn't be your primary TV connection. It has slightly more latency and occasionally drops in noisy RF environments. For casual phone music, it's fine. For TV, stick with wired.

Does Wireless Audio Reduce Quality?

For human hearing, no. HDMI ARC and optical both use compressed audio (Dolby Digital), which is identical whether transmitted by wire or processed inside the TV. If there were a quality difference, you'd need $50,000+ speakers to hear it.

Bluetooth uses different compression (typically AAC or SBC), which is lossy. In practical listening, this is imperceptible on most soundbars. The slight data loss is masked by the speaker's response anyway.

The real difference: reliability and latency. Wired is more reliable (no RF interference). Wired has lower latency (better for gaming). But for TV watching and music streaming, the difference is unnoticeable to 99% of listeners.

Future-Proofing With ARC vs. e ARC

e ARC supports lossless audio and Dolby Atmos. ARC does not. If your TV and soundbar both support e ARC, you get access to these higher-quality formats.

In practice? Most streaming services and TV broadcasts use Dolby Digital or stereo. Atmos-capable content is rare. e ARC is nice but not essential. If your TV has e ARC and your soundbar supports it, great. If not, ARC absolutely suffices.

Upgrading from TV speakers to a budget soundbar offers the most significant improvement, estimated at 100%. Moving from a budget to a mid-tier soundbar provides a 25% improvement, while upgrading to a new model offers only a 10% improvement. Estimated data.

Adding Subwoofers: When and How

A soundbar gives you better TV audio. A soundbar plus subwoofer gives you something closer to a real home theater. Here's how to upgrade wisely.

When You Actually Need a Subwoofer

If you watch a lot of action movies, play bass-heavy games, or stream music with deep bass, a subwoofer transforms your experience. If you mainly watch dramas and news, a subwoofer is nice but not essential.

The dividing line: do you want to feel explosions and hear the deepest bass frequencies? If yes, a subwoofer is worth it. If no, save your money.

Choosing a Subwoofer That Works With Your Soundbar

Before you buy a soundbar, verify subwoofer compatibility. Ideally, the soundbar manufacturer makes a matching subwoofer, and it costs $150-250. That's reasonable.

If the only compatible subwoofer costs $400+, that's a red flag. The soundbar manufacturer is price-locking you into their ecosystem. Avoid this.

Alternatively, some soundbars use standard wireless protocols (like Bluetooth or proprietary 2.4 GHz), allowing third-party subwoofers. More options means better value.

The 2.1 System Economics

A

The catch: the subwoofer must be quality too. A cheap soundbar with an expensive subwoofer creates weird imbalance (boomy, unclear). A quality soundbar with a budget subwoofer is much better. Always invest more in the soundbar than the subwoofer.

Placement for Optimal Bass

Unlike soundbars, subwoofer placement matters enormously. Bass frequencies are non-directional (your brain can't tell where they come from), so you have flexibility. Place your subwoofer where it fits best, not necessarily near the soundbar.

Pro Tip: bass response varies dramatically at different positions in your room. Some spots will have boom, others will sound tight. If you have a subwoofer on a 15-foot wireless link, experiment with different placements for a few days. You might find a location that sounds significantly better.

Room Acoustics: Why Your Neighbor's Soundbar Might Sound Better Than Yours

Two identical soundbars in different rooms can sound dramatically different. Here's why and what you can do about it.

Hard Surfaces and Reflections

Sound bounces off hard surfaces. A living room with hardwood floors, glass tables, and minimal furniture reflects sound everywhere, creating echo and muddy bass. The same soundbar in a carpeted room with curtains and furniture sounds much better.

You can't always rearrange your room for acoustics, but awareness helps. If your soundbar sounds boxy, consider adding soft furnishings: curtains, rugs, bookshelves with books. These absorb sound instead of reflecting it.

The Nearfield Effect

If you sit very close to your soundbar (like three feet away), you hear direct sound from the speaker and less reflected sound from the room. This makes bass sound tighter and treble crisper. Sit 12 feet away, and the room's acoustics become more prominent.

There's no "correct" distance. Just be aware that distance from the soundbar affects what you hear. If you can't figure out why a soundbar sounds different from reviews, your room distance might be the culprit.

Bass Modes and Room Correction

Some soundbars include room correction modes. These adjust EQ based on your room's presumed acoustics. Sometimes helpful, often not.

If your soundbar has a "room size" setting (small, medium, large), match it to your actual room. A small room mode applied in a cavernous living room sounds thin. A large room mode in a bedroom sounds boomy. Get this right, and the soundbar's tuning improves.

Real-World Use Cases: How Different People Use Soundbars

Use cases vary wildly. Here's how different people prioritize different features.

The Casual Streamer

Watches Netflix, Prime, and occasionally You Tube. Wants clear dialogue, reasonable bass, zero setup hassle. Will spend max $150. Doesn't care about surround processing or fancy features.

Ideal soundbar: Compact, simple, solid dialogue tuning. Bluetooth for occasional phone music. HDMI ARC for seamless TV integration. Boom, done.

The Movie Enthusiast

Watches theatrical releases on streaming, some 4K discs, occasional cinematic content. Wants expansive soundstage, impactful bass, good Atmos support if available. Will spend $200-350.

Ideal soundbar: Larger soundbar with subwoofer compatibility, e ARC support for Atmos, multiple drivers for spacious sound. Maybe 2.1 setup (soundbar plus subwoofer).

The Gaming Focused User

Plays games with complex soundscapes. Wants spatial audio, low latency, immersive sound effects. Will spend $150-300.

Ideal soundbar: Features like virtual surround or dedicated gaming modes. Wired connection (USB or optical) for lowest latency. Good bass response for game impacts.

The Music Lover

Streams music regularly, wants good stereo separation and balanced frequency response. Will spend $100-250.

Ideal soundbar: Emphasis on musical clarity, good mid-range, detailed treble. Bluetooth for wireless streaming. Less concerned about subwoofer compatibility.

Testing Soundbars: How to Evaluate Them Before Buying

Before committing your money, test a soundbar's critical aspects.

What to Listen For in Dialogue

Put on a movie or TV show you know well. Skip forward to a quiet dialogue scene with good production quality. Listen for clarity in consonants (crisp, not muffled), warmth in vowels (not thin or harsh), and overall intelligibility.

If you find yourself turning on captions because you can't understand dialogue, the soundbar has failed the most important test. Return it immediately.

Bass Response Testing

Find a movie or music track with deep bass (like a space exploration scene or a rap/hip-hop track). Turn up to comfortable volume. Listen for rumbling (good) vs. woofiness (bad). The bass should enhance the experience, not overwhelm it.

Play the same content on your TV speakers for comparison. The soundbar bass should be noticeably deeper and more present.

Soundstage Width Assessment

Put on music or a movie with stereo separation (like orchestral music or a film with panning effects). Can you hear instruments separated across the width of the room? With a TV speaker, sound seems to come from a point. With a good soundbar, it should spread out wider.

This is harder to judge through store speakers or website videos. You'll need to experience it in your own room.

Gaming Latency Check

If you game, connect a console and play. Listen for sync issues between what you see and what you hear. Lag between action and sound is distracting. A quality soundbar adds minimal latency (under 40ms), which is unnoticeable. Over 100ms, it's obvious.

Some soundbars have a "gaming mode" that reduces latency by disabling processing. If gaming matters to you, test this specifically.

Soundbar Upgrades: When to Replace What

Soundbar technology improves slowly. Knowing when to upgrade and when to hold is important.

When Your Current Soundbar Is Fine

If it sounds good, has the features you use, and works reliably, keep it. Audio equipment doesn't degrade over time. A five-year-old soundbar sounds the same as a new one if it's functioning properly.

Upgrades are optional, not necessary. A 2019 soundbar that you love is better than a new one you're meh about.

When It's Time to Replace

Replace when functionality fails (Bluetooth won't connect, HDMI fails) or when you want capabilities your current soundbar lacks (like subwoofer support or e ARC).

Don't replace because new models exist. Audio improvements are incremental. A new

Upgrading From TV Speaker Only

This is the biggest jump. Going from TV audio to even a budget soundbar is transformative. You'll feel the difference immediately and dramatically. This is a worthwhile upgrade.

Upgrading from a budget soundbar to a mid-tier soundbar is nice but not dramatic. The improvement is 20-30%, not 200%.

Future of Soundbar Technology: What's Coming

Soundbar tech is maturing, but a few trends are worth watching.

AI-Powered Room Calibration

Future soundbars might include mics that analyze your room's acoustics automatically, then adjust EQ in real-time. Some advanced models have this now, but it's becoming more common in budget models.

This is genuinely helpful. It means less fiddling with manual EQ settings and more "sounds good out of the box." However, it's not essential. A well-tuned soundbar doesn't need AI to sound great.

Immersive Audio Formats

Dolby Atmos is available in some budget models now. Spatial Audio over regular stereo is becoming more common in streaming content. As these formats trickle down, expect budget soundbars to support them.

Is this necessary? Not yet. Most content is still stereo or 5.1 Dolby Digital. But as streaming services include more Atmos content, support becomes more valuable.

Wireless Everything

Wired connections are becoming rarer in consumer products. Future soundbars might ditch optical and HDMI ARC entirely, relying on Wi-Fi or advanced Bluetooth.

This will happen eventually, but it's not here yet. Until Wi-Fi becomes as reliable as wired (which requires your home network to be excellent), wired connections remain preferable.

Troubleshooting Common Soundbar Issues

Things go wrong sometimes. Here's how to fix the most common problems.

No Sound at All

1. Check that the soundbar is powered on (LED indicator should glow)
2. Check that your TV is outputting audio to the soundbar (check TV settings, might be set to internal speakers)
3. If using HDMI ARC, try reseating the cable on both ends
4. Check the volume level on the soundbar (use the remote to increase)
5. Restart both the TV and soundbar

If none of these work, the soundbar likely has a hardware issue. Contact support.

Sound Cuts In and Out

1. If using Bluetooth, move your phone closer to the soundbar
2. Turn off other Bluetooth devices in the room
3. If using HDMI, try a different HDMI cable (the original might be faulty)
4. Check for firmware updates on the soundbar manufacturer's website
5. Restart both devices

If this persists, there's likely a hardware defect. Return the soundbar.

Sound Is Distorted or Tinny

1. Reduce the volume (distortion often happens at high volumes with cheap soundbars)
2. Check the soundbar's EQ settings. You might have treble turned way up
3. Ensure your TV's audio output is set to Dolby Digital or PCM, not a compressed format
4. Try reducing bass if the distortion is in the low frequencies

If the soundbar distorts at normal volumes, it's a tuning problem. Return it.

FAQ

What is a soundbar and why do I need one?

A soundbar is a single speaker unit designed to replace your TV's built-in audio. TV manufacturers prioritize screen size and thinness over speaker quality, resulting in tinny, directional audio that sounds hollow. A soundbar places multiple drivers across a wider space, creating better dialogue clarity, more natural bass, and a wider soundstage. You need one if you want to actually enjoy what you're watching instead of straining to understand dialogue or feeling immersed in sound.

How do I connect a soundbar to my TV?

The easiest method is HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel), which uses a single cable connected to the ARC-labeled HDMI port on your TV. This sends video to your TV and audio back to the soundbar automatically. If your TV lacks HDMI ARC, use an optical cable instead. Bluetooth is available but shouldn't be your primary TV connection due to occasional latency and dropouts. Setup typically takes under five minutes once you've positioned the soundbar.

What's the difference between HDMI ARC and e ARC?

ARC is the standard connection that works on most modern TVs and soundbars. It supports Dolby Digital and stereo audio. e ARC (enhanced ARC) is newer and supports lossless audio and Dolby Atmos, providing slightly better quality for compatible content. In practical terms, ARC is perfectly adequate for TV watching. e ARC is nice if both your TV and soundbar support it, but it's not essential since most content doesn't actually use Atmos or lossless audio. Unless you're specifically watching Atmos-encoded content on a streaming service, ARC and e ARC sound virtually identical.

Should I buy a soundbar with a subwoofer included or separately?

This depends on your budget and preferences. A soundbar-only system (

Can I use my soundbar for music streaming?

Absolutely. Most soundbars support Bluetooth, which lets you stream music from your phone, tablet, or laptop wirelessly. Some also connect via Wi-Fi for streaming apps like Spotify or Apple Music. Bluetooth is simpler and works reliably for casual music listening. Wi-Fi is better for dedicated streaming apps but requires your soundbar to be connected to your network. Either way, a quality soundbar makes music streaming significantly more enjoyable than phone or laptop speakers.

What's the difference between 2.0, 2.1, and 3.1 soundbars?

These numbers describe the speaker configuration. 2.0 means two channels (left and right stereo). 2.1 adds a separate subwoofer (.1). 3.1 means a dedicated center channel plus subwoofer. For TV watching on a budget, 2.0 is sufficient and sounds great. 2.1 adds impactful bass. 3.1 adds a dedicated center channel optimized for dialogue. Most budget soundbars are 2.0. You can upgrade to 2.1 by adding a subwoofer later.

Do I need a soundbar if I have a surround sound system?

No. A proper 5.1 or 7.1 surround system outperforms any soundbar. However, a full surround system costs $1,000+, requires extensive installation, and needs dedicated amplifiers and wiring. A soundbar is a practical, affordable alternative that gives 80% of the improvement for a fraction of the cost and complexity. If you already have a surround system, a soundbar is redundant.

How loud can a soundbar get?

Most budget soundbars max out around 95-100 decibels. For context, normal conversation is 60 d B, heavy traffic is 85 d B, and a rock concert is 110 d B. In a typical living room, 95 d B is more than loud enough, with headroom to spare. You'll rarely need your soundbar at maximum volume. Even at 80 d B (typical TV watching level), you'll be comfortable and have room to boost for action scenes.

Can I wall-mount a soundbar?

Most soundbars can be wall-mounted above or below your TV using included brackets. Wall-mounting saves space and looks cleaner than a soundbar on a TV stand. Just ensure your wall can support the weight (typically 3-7 pounds) and that cables can be hidden easily. Wall-mounting slightly changes how sound projects into your room, but the difference is minor if the soundbar is reasonably close to your TV.

What warranty should I expect?

Budget soundbars typically come with 1-year manufacturer warranty covering hardware defects. Some include 2-year warranties or optional extended protection. Warranty is important because it covers manufacturing defects that might emerge early. However, if a soundbar fails, it usually happens within 30 days, so prioritize store return windows over manufacturer warranty length.

Is it worth buying expensive soundbars or should I start with budget options?

Start with a budget soundbar (

Conclusion: Transforming Your TV Experience Doesn't Cost a Fortune

Your TV's built-in speakers are a necessary compromise, not a feature. They're tiny, tinny, and directional. They've never sounded good, and they never will.

But here's the good news: you don't need to spend a fortune to fix this. A $100-250 soundbar transforms your viewing experience in ways that seem obvious in hindsight. Suddenly, you can understand dialogue without captions. Explosions have impact. Music has warmth. Ambient effects feel spacious instead of stuck-to-the-screen.

The soundbars in this guide represent the best value in their price ranges. They're not the flashiest options. They won't win design awards. But they do one thing exceptionally well: make your TV sound genuinely good without breaking your budget.

The best part? Setup is simple. One cable, plug in power, and you're done. No calibration software, no complicated remotes, no installation fees. Unbox it, connect it, and enjoy better sound immediately.

If you've been putting off upgrading your TV's audio because you thought it would be expensive or complicated, this is your sign to stop procrastinating. A soundbar is one of the highest-ROI upgrades you can make for your home entertainment setup.

Pick one that fits your budget. Position it below or above your TV. Connect it with HDMI ARC. Let your ears adjust to actual decent sound for a few minutes. Then wonder why you didn't do this years ago.

Your TV deserves better speakers. Your ears deserve better audio. And you deserve to actually enjoy watching things instead of straining to hear dialogue or feeling like the sound is happening somewhere behind your couch.

Start with a soundbar. If you want to add a subwoofer later, you can. If you want to expand to surround speakers, plenty of options exist. But for now, a single solid soundbar is all you need to reclaim your TV's audio experience.

Key Takeaways

• Budget soundbars ($80-250) deliver 60-80% audio improvement over TV speakers at fraction of premium costs
• HDMI ARC connection simplifies setup to single cable, eliminating complex wiring
• Dialogue clarity is most critical soundbar feature for TV watching; prioritize it above all else
• A
  $150 soundbar plus$
  200 subwoofer (
  $350 total) rivals$
  700+ premium systems
• Future-proof your purchase by choosing soundbars with subwoofer compatibility for potential upgrades

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